Germany wears its riches well. Elegant big-city charm, pagan-inspired harvest festivals, a wealth of art and culture and the perennial pleasures of huge tracts of forest are all there for enjoying. Germany is an excellent introduction to Europe for the first-time traveler. English is widely spoken, the country is clean and functional, and the tourism infrastructure is well established. Despite the setbacks Germans have faced in two world wars, they have meticulously restored their historic areas and forests, the smaller villages retain their quaintness and scenic treasures.

But Germany's history, both recent and still in the making, weighs heavily. No visitor will remain untouched by this country's complex past and the way it affects the nation today.